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· Lake Wales, Florida

Spook Hill, Lake Wales: the cheapest, strangest, most stubborn tourist attraction in Florida

Pull up to the white line on North Wales Drive, shift into neutral, and take your foot off the brake. Your car appears to roll uphill. The science is older than the legend, and the legend is older than the highway.

There is a one-block stretch of pavement on the north edge of downtown Lake Wales, Florida, where the laws of physics seem to take a personal day. The road in question is North Wales Drive, formerly North Avenue, and the entire transaction takes about ninety seconds. You drive up, you see the brown state historical marker and the cartoon ghost painted on the curb, you ease your front tires up to a faded white line on the asphalt, you shift the car into neutral, and you let the brake out. Then your car rolls. Backwards. Apparently uphill. The first time you experience it you laugh out loud in a way that you did not choose to laugh, because your brain has just been handed an answer that it does not believe.

Spook Hill is what landscape geologists call a gravity hill, an optical illusion produced by the way the surrounding terrain stages your perception of the slope. There are perhaps fifty documented gravity hills on the planet, scattered from Scotland to New Brunswick to the back roads of West Virginia, and the science is the same wherever they appear: the road actually descends in the direction the car rolls, but the horizon, the tree canopy, the angle of the curbs and the slope of the adjacent yards conspire to convince your eye that you are looking up a grade rather than down one. Carpenters' levels and marbles and water bottles have been deployed against Spook Hill for the better part of a century, and the marbles always agree with the engineers and the engineers always lose the argument anyway, because what the eye sees is more persuasive than what the marble proves.

The legend is older than the explanation. A brown roadside marker, installed decades ago by the State of Florida, tells the story of a Seminole chief named Cufcowellax, who fought a giant alligator that had been raiding his village's fish stores on the small lake at the base of the ridge. The chief and the alligator killed each other in the water; early Anglo settlers who later tried to homestead the ridge reported that their horses spooked at the rise, refusing to walk up the slope after dark, and the settlers concluded that the ghost of the chief or the ghost of the alligator was at work. The Lake Wales Chamber of Commerce formalized the name in the early 1950s, commissioned a cartoonish Casper-style ghost painted on the curb, and never had to advertise the place again. The mural is still there. The horses are not.

There is no admission booth, no gift shop, no employee, no parking lot, no entrance and no exit. There is only a quiet residential street on the way up to a small elementary school, which is the secondary reason locals will gently ask you not to make Spook Hill your fifth lap of the morning. You arrive, you do it twice, you take a photo of the marker for your group chat, and you move on. The whole thing is best paired with something else: Bok Tower Gardens is roughly ten minutes east, the Lake Wales Latte Lounge in the restored Rhodesbilt Arcade is five minutes south, and the free Lake Wales Depot Museum on Scenic Highway will explain in fifteen minutes the citrus-and-railroad century that made this town possible in the first place. Together those four stops are a perfect half day, and they will tell you more about who Florida used to be, and quietly still is, than any theme park ever has.

About the author

Lake Wales Guide is the independent city guide to Lake Wales, Florida, covering the downtown open mic at Market Plaza, the Lake Wales Connected revitalization, the Lincoln Avenue corridor, and the people building the Ridge city. Send corrections to jason@backtier.com.

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